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Peak Mountain 3

Waterfall Arete

FA Alex Manikowski *, Aug 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Sit start at top of dirt chute leading over the falls, with a left hand on the dark colored slopey ball, and right hand pinching the edged Arete.

Work your way up the Arete and face, with a gigantic sloper top out featuring a few micro pockets.

A high heel hook over the waterfall to a perfect half pad crimp rail, then a high, classic Castle Rock sloper top-out.

The start holds are solid, so is the middle and top, but right after the start is an easy section that is still a bit gravely. Will firm up with traffic I’m guessing.

Borderline highball with normal falls mostly safe, but a super awkward fall on the start or the top out could result in a 60 foot drop off the waterfall cliff. Be safe!

  • Alex M shared this as a FA? in August 2020, proposed V8. A lot of the waves back here had been climbed but no other info out there on this one that came out. It's a pretty good one to go forgotten imo, but never know at CR - any more info DM me or change the details!

Location

The line is in the muffins area of CR, and starts right next to the anchors at the top of Clamydia (5.11d).

There’s a few rows/waves in the lower muffins area, and this problem is on the third wave (uphill from the wave with Sticky Green Traverse and Pocket Face).

Protection

Two pads and a spotter


Routes in Lower Muffins Boulders


  1. 2
    Waterfall Arete
    V8
    Bouldering