- Edit (TBD)
Description
Someone forgot to tell the FA that these sorts of routes belong in the Solar Cave. If it were in the cave it would receive 4 stars and non-stop traffic, but in its current location it sits more or less ignored, probably due to its relatively chossy appearance.
Begin with surprisingly difficult moves after stick-clipping the first bolt. Above the bolt good crimps lead up the slab to a traverse right into the large dihedral.
Reach left and clip a bolt from a decent stance below the roof, then traverse left, past the rickety rock, which is not a mandatory hold, but probably makes things a bit easier. Traverse back right again to a weird horizontal crack/sloper hold that you're not really sure how to use. Is it a finger lock, is it an undercling, is it a sloper? Do the best you can with this thing then find some great, signature Diablo slopers, and a hidden jug out left. Work your feet over the lip and clip the anchor.
Location
Immediately left of Class Act, beginnning up a panel of gray stone.
Protection
7 bolts, 2 Bolt SS quick clip anchor
Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)
- 20Rickety Rock5.11cSport