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Peak Mountain 3

Sage Finds The Golden Stick

FA John Robinson, Brad Johnson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

(This Route is so new it's not in the new North Tahoe Guide Book) 20' right of "Shadows on the Earth". Walk up a 3' wide ramp about 10', and clip the first bolt. A tricky little move gets you to a good stance and ready for the first crux. Maybe a jam, maybe a sidepull, maybe a wide stem, maybe a high step, maybe an undercling (you gotta figure it out). Now continue up to the headwall and make an abrupt left turn and traverse about as far as you can, then go up and see if you can figure out how to get over the roof. I made the clip at the roof easier as some gumby complained the hanger was too hard to clip so I added a perma draw. Now you need to figure out how to get over the overhang. There are some excellent holds over the top of the overhang but it might be a bit perplexing, getting to those good holds. There are holds there, you just need to find them. After the overhang is mounted you have easy 5.9 sailing to the top anchors. You might tell yourself that the move just before the top anchor is harder than 5.9 but, if you figure out what to do, you'll tell yourself, "that wasn't that hard".

Location

Just right of "Shadows on the Earth" walk up a wide ledge to clip the first bolt.

Protection

11 bolts, mussy hook anchors.