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Peak Mountain 3

Intensive Care

FA Stewart Green, Ian Spencer-Green & Brett Spencer-Green in 1993
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This excellent 1-pitch route, established after I got out of intensive care for a throat injury in 1993, ascends the big slab on the right side of Silver Cascade Slab. Begin at a shallow corner on a wide sloping ramp below a long roof. Climb polished rock past a chopped bolt to a V-shaped break in the roof. A Friend below the roof protects a move to a bolt. Step left past the bolt (harder for short climbers) and onto some small shelves. Continue straight up the slab above past 5 more bolts to the cliff-top. Belay from a tree anchor. Walk-off descent to the left.

Part of this route may have been climbed previous to my ascent since a funky old 1-inch-long bolt with a rappel sling was part-way up the slab. I also established another 5.8 route to the left, but the hangers were stolen in 1995.

Protection

A #2.5 to #3 Friend and quickdraws. A 200-foot-rope is useful, because it's a full rope-length.