Red Dog and Salsa

Keeping with the colors theme of this zone, Red Dog and Salsa is an enjoyable, well-protected pitch of interesting climbing up a seam and undercling flake guarded by a vicious slab crux. This would be a great pitch to try after a warming up on the nearby Black Rabbit or Silver Threads.

The original line climbs rightwards off the belay via two bolts of slab climbing through a bulge. I could not decipher how to do these moves and broke several potato chip flakes underfoot which were, unfortunately, the only things even remotely resembling holds on this section of climbing. I suspect that key holds have broken over the years rendering this start either very difficult or impossible.

Fortunately, a new passage was discovered that I believe to be an excellent alternative start (bulletproof rock and a great sequence) and the grade remains unchanged from the original 5.11c rating. One bolt was added to protect this passage.

The route is described with the new start:

Begin by scrambling up the Witch-Necromancer gully taking the first opportunity to move rightwards, traversing across an exposed ledge to a 5.0 move leading to a bolted anchor. Belay here.

Climb up easy rock above the belay and below a left-leaning roof system to a somewhat hidden jug rail above the roof. To prevent catastrophe, place a 0.75 Camalot with a long sling and swing up over the roof, mantle onto the rail and clip the bolt. After a good rest, reverse the mantle, back clean the 0.75 Camalot, and traverse rightwards underneath the bolt (footwork crux) to join the original line at a thin seam. Follow this past wire placements and three bolts to gain a wild flake. Undercling up this to a bolted anchor.

Rappel or continue to the top of the Necromancer via a short, easy pitch up flakes.

A single rack from tiny to 0.75 Camalot, optional extra finger-sized pieces for the undercling.