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Peak Mountain 3

Momma's Squeeze Box

FA Tom Howard, Bill Newman 1981
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Description

This route is a great intro for offwidth climbing. Climb the squeeze chimney to the top. It can be a bit dirty inside, but this does not really affect the climbing. About 20 Ft. below the top, there are several variations to the finish as the crack split to the right or straight up. Straight up appears to be the easiest finish, with very large gear for protection. The right crack can be made more difficult by exiting the chimney at the first opportunity(G gear).

Location

Start at the base of the obvious wide chimney on a platform. This is just to the left of Concertina.

Protection

This takes on a PG rating unless big bros are used. Most of the chimney can be very adequately protected with small nuts and cams.