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Peak Mountain 3

The Pillow

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Description

This formation varies in difficulty, both in the climbing and the ability to protect. South edge (grabbing the edge is off) is a balancy slab with many high steps, as you move north the climbing gets easier and the pro gets better. Either route comes back to the left (south) to pass through the small roof at the top. On lead, the climber is looking at a fall onto the slab until well past the roof and into the finish moves. While these moves are easy, the fall potential should not be taken lightly....

Protection

Small nuts (#3-5) brassies, small cams (.3 & .4) camalot, tricams (pink to 1st blue), #3.5 camalot up high, maybe a few medium nuts higher, long runners will help with rope drag, or use two ropes to shorten potential falls.