Old Dog, New Tricks

A new and fun addition to the Kern Slab, this route starts 10 feet left of

'Well, It Looked Easy' (.11b)

.

Pitch #1 (10a.)

:  Start by moving up a right to left foot edge to gain the first bolt. The crux (.10a) is frictioning past the first bolt to a small sloping ledge slightly up and left. Mantle the ledge and climb along a small right facing corner to its apex. Clip the 2nd bolt out to the left, moving out left and then up. Continue up, heading over a few overlaps and clipping 9 more bolts along the way. Arrive at a 2-bolt belay with quicklinks (150'). Be sure to trail a rope for a double rope rappel.

Variation (FA: Dave Daly and Matt Chambers, 24 Feb 2019):

After reaching the 9th bolt, move off right toward a manzinita bush and locate a thin finger crack (pro to #4 RP's) and ascend this to the same anchor. The crack goes 5.7.

Pitch #2 (5.6)

:  Continue up, passing 6 bolts while heading over a few overrlaps to a 2-bolt anchor.

Additionally and directly above the 2nd pitch bolted anchor, is an overhanging dihedral (3 bolts) that is reported to go at 5.12.

This route is located on the far right side of Kern Slab, approximately 10 feet left of a thin finger crack, which is the start of

'Well, It Looked Easy' (.11b)

,

(11) quickdraws

Optional pro (nuts to #4, small to medium cams)

(2) 60 meter ropes