The Beast

Pitch 1: Start in the middle of the north face of Diamonback Buttress, at a little left-slanting corner/overlap. Lieback/undercling the crack in the corner (5.10a), then climb a smooth slab past 6 bolts (5.11a above the fourth bolt), moving right at the top to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor (130 feet).

Pitch 2: Climb the slab on the left past 2 bolts (5.11a) to a flake. Where the flake ends, a bolt protects face moves (5.10a) up to another crack. Follow this crack as it branches left, then peters out, where a sling on a horn protects easier face moves up to a ledge beneath the summit block.

Pitch 3: A bolt protects bouldery moves either left (5.11a) or straight up (height dependent 5.11, cheat stone optional). Either way, move left to an arete, where a hidden bolt on the left side of the arete protects the final slab moves to the unique summit where you'll find a 2-bolt anchor.

Descent: A short scramble down the west side of the summit block (toward Tahquitz Rock) leads to the rappel bolts. A 100-foot rappel, plus some 4th class downclimbing, gets you back down to the North Gully.

A Detailed topo of the route is included in the Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide guidebook.

Pro: to 2 inches