- Edit (TBD)
Description
A fun, easy route for an emerging 5.7 leader. Most of the route goes at 5.6 with a slabby, 5.7 move at the last bolt. Follow the obvious line of bolts to a fun "reach around" move about 2/3 of the way up. Reach up high to make the clip, reach around right to grab a big hole/pocket thing and then step out right onto the face. A fun, exposed "reachy" move. Move up to clip one last bolt then make a tricky, slabby move to get to the anchor. If you're tall, a couple of knobs out left keep the grade around 5.7. It may feel harder if you can't reach the knobs. Two bolt anchor with quick links and "courtesy clips" at the top.
I have not yet explored it, but it may be possible to work your way left (then up and right) using trad gear to get to the top of the tower. Note that to get to this route, don't head directly toward the keyhole feature. This route is slightly right of the keyhole in a separate draw.
Location
From the car, head up toward the obvious giant slot. Instead of going to the slot, move right into the next mini-canyon. Scramble as high as you can comfortably go (3rd Class) then move left along the cliff face until you see the first bolt.
Protection
8 bolts and 2 bolt anchor on top.