- Edit (TBD)
Description
Underclings, kneebars, crack and face, it has a little bit of everything.
P1. 5.10b. Scramble/chimney up to an alcove/ledge - or climb the starting slab of
Penguin Arete
past two bolts to the alcove, and belay here. Climb up to the roof, and commit to a heady undercling, moving out right, then lieback and kneebar up and around the corner. Move back left under the second roof, and climb the overhanging crack and face to a big belay ledge.
P2. Either finish up
Penguin Arete
to the bolted anchors or climb a chimney/crack up and right to the top of the cliff.
Descent: rap
Penguin Arete
with a 70m rope with knots in the ends or from the top of the cliff move right to a tree with slings, then rap 50 feet to a ledge, and move left around a corner to anchors. Then rap 110 feet to the ground.
Location
Start as per
Drunken Master
in the middle of the cliff.
Protection
Cams to 3 inches, long slings, and a yellow Lowe Ball which is very helpful.