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MapCrazy Crack
Description
Definitely an old Umpqua classic, this route begins with 30 feet of relentlessly (5.10c to 5.10a) thin finger crack climbing passing with a 5.10c crux move over a slight bulge. Above the bulge the crack widens and backs of to 5.7 hand crack becoming progressively steeper finishing with 5.9 jamming with sections deep enough to get your arm into. Belay bolts have recently been added just above the bulge allowing you to break the climb into two pitches as climbing through in a single pitch is relentless.
Location
NW face of Medicine Rock.
Protection
gear 1/4 to 4 inches, mid-belay anchors have chains, no chains on top anchors.