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Peak Mountain 3

Chimney Swift

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Description

climb up the corner/chimney feature, stemming is useful. Pull up out of the corner and climb the easy crack to the midway anchors.

From here there are two options to reach the upper balcony.

Option 1: go more or less straight up and climb the fist sized crack.

Option 2: Traverse right to the cracked arête, and climb up the bolt protected finger crack as it widens to great hands

Both options feel about the same in difficulty Option 2 has  lost the blocks on the arete that made the finger crack and inside side pulls between the second and third bolt.  the difficulty of this section is now significantly harder

Once you reach the balcony, there is still about 10ft of climbing up the crack at the back of the balcony which gets you to the top of the canyon.

Protection

standard rack, a #4 is good for option 1

option 2 has 4 bolts on the lower section of the arete to aviod the possiblity of damaging the stack of compressed blocks that froms the right hand arete.

bolts at the top of the canyon to make an anchor