- Edit (TBD)
Nutrasweet
Description
This funky line tackles the space between Lynn Cove Lullaby and The Broach, weaving together some disjoint features to send climbers either towards the Lynn Cove topout (via the actual Nutrasweet P2) or the thin face exit just above the Broach via First Flight. Two options of very different character, but similar difficulty.
P1 Start as per the first pitch/approach of the Broach up an easy section just right of Lynn Cove Lullaby. Continue up through the corner staring at the right arching roof of the Broach but when you get to a good flat obvious ledge you can build a belay making this pitch around 5.6 or so.
OR make P1 a little longer and include the first 10ish crux section to take it to a higher belay.
From the end of the 5.6 part/first belay option, up and a bit left is a left leaning corner with a few broken up sections. The last bit of this is a cruxier region but protects well if you are observant. Pull through the end of this corner and, after exiting it, trend a little up and right into a nice corner under the big roof, although beware the loose looking chockstone sorta lodged there. A good gear belay can be had here with some big stoppers and finger to mid-sized gear.
P2 10c: Either do the above if you stopped sooner, or move out left from the higher belay and follow the cracks at the top of the corner to make a pumpy leftward high traverse using the vertical hand crack (and bad feet) out left to gain the face where Lynn Cove finishes. Crank through a bit of vert at the end to close things out.
Take extra care with slinging your pro (and protecting your follower) as the final arete you round near the Lynn Cove topout is mighty sharp!
Location
Located just right of Lynn Cove Lullaby. Look up for the big arching roof of the Broach and this line begins by aiming for the same corner system.
Descend via the Lynn Cove station, a bit left of the topout.
Protection
Standard rack, long runners are recommended for keeping pro from dragging your rope over some rather sharp arete corners, particularly near the P2 crux.
Routes in Main Tier
- 10Nutrasweet5.10cTrad