Marmot Crack

The book calls this route 5.8. I disagree. There are three distinct roof moves that require good jamming skills and technique. "Follow the right facing corner crack to the top of the Orangutan block. The upper section of this climb follows either the main left corner at 5.8 or the right corner at 5.9+. This route can be split into two pitches" to reduce rope drag. This route is pretty dirty and requires attention to not trundle loose blocks.

This route ascends the crack and dihedral system on the left of the Orangutan block.

Pro to 4". Slings are good to help reduce drag around corners. Doubles good for options. The guidebook shows the anchors to be shared with Orangutan Roof on top of the feature but the route doesn't really take you there. I was surprised to not see anchors in a more accessible spot. Would need a #5 at least to protect a very exposed traverse around an edgy block that is not in style with the rest of the route. Once there you would be bummed to find suspect bolts and hangars. We did not use the rappel station to descend. Instead we continued up about 15 feet above the bolted anchor to a small ledge where another previous disappointed party left two good small nuts to rap off of. I added a third larger and some cord with a locker. A drill would solve the problem and place an actual anchor here. We split the route into 2 pitches to reduce drag. A 70 meter rope got us all the way down in one rappel.