Fantastic Voyage

Pitch 1: Heinous start, climb the overhanging roof crack (crux). Past the lip the lichen covered slab is easy terrain with no pro till you reach the belay station.

Pitch 2: Climb the dirty ramp up and right to a point directly below the first bolt. Mantle up onto a good flake, clip the bolt, then stem back right onto a sloping stance on the ramp. Climb very thin 5.10 face moves (slightly runout) up to a roof, clip a bolt over the roof, and crank crux moves over the roof to a good ledge. From here jam and stem 25 feet up a crack/chimney until you can pull left onto the ledge atop the second pitch of League of Doom.

Pitch 3: Climb the first 10-15 feet of Spaceballs over the bulge above the belay and onto the slab above. Traverse left on big sloping footholds to a bolt and a stance right at the very left edge of the face. Place a good cam in a horizontal and then launch out left on an incredibly exposed overhanging traverse along the lip of the big roof, aiming for an obvious diving board flake. This traverse has good holds and is about 5.8 in difficulty, but be prepared to gun it about 15-20 feet without gear. From the big flake, step up on good holds to clip a bolt, pull up and left around the blunt arête onto a slab and another bolt, then cruise the easy but dirty slab to the top.

The original 1/4" bolts on the second and third pitches have been replaced with 1/2" stainless five-piece bolts and the second pitch has been scrubbed clean of lichen as well as dirt, grass, and thorn bushes (!) pulled out of the crack/chimney above the crux. The end result of this monumental effort is an excellent three-pitch 5.10d if one begins the route with the first pitch of League of Doom instead of Fantastic Voyage's 5.12x first pitch horror fest.

Thanks to Chris Banks for updated route beta.

Roof crack between League of Doom and Spaced.

A crash pad would be helpful working the 1st pitch. No pro on the slab. Standard Okie rack plus a few bolts to clip.