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Peak Mountain 3

On The Fly

FA Peter Vintoniv and James Garrett, June 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route ascends the longest stretch of face/slab on the quartzite North East Face of DeMoisy Peak.

Pitch #1: The good quality quartzite is oddly bleached a whitish gray hue. Start up an arête past a few faint overlaps to a hand crack trending left and away from the edge. On very nice edges continue left and up to a belay on a ledge. 5.8, 30m.

Pitch #2: Move the belay to the far left side of the ledge. Start up to the right of a massive right facing dihedral which veers left and follow the line straight up the slab passing some welcome fixed protection to a belay station. 5.10a/b, 40m

3rd class a short stretch of broken up rock to the summit ridge.

Walk off to the West. Rappelling the route is also possible.

Location

A wonderful and consistent slab route up solid quartzite stone to the summit of an alpine peak.

Protection

12 QDs and set of Camalots (C3s and Aliens very helpful!) to #3 and Nuts


Routes in DeMoisy Peak


  1. 1
    On The Fly
    5.10a
    Alpine · Trad