October Surprise

October Surprise is listed in Rossiter's guidebook as a variation to the 2nd pitch of

On Ballet

. I am describing it with a nice first pitch, that, unfortunately, has been dumbed down a bit with 3 unnecessary bolts. The first pitch is pleasant but nothing special, but I really liked the second pitch. Moving right from the flakes into the left-facing corner was strange and spooky (although well-protected). Above that, moving left under the slanting roof looked hard but turned out to be moderate with toprope protection.

Rossiter and Rolofson call this 2nd pitch 10a, but I'll call it 10b to be safe.

P1 5.9: Start left of

On Ballet

at 2 bolts a little above the ground. You could climb trad left or right of these bolts. Pull the bulge at the second bolt at about 5.9 or 10a. Continue up easy ground to a white dike that passes a bulge near an arete. The gear is a bit strange at this move but OK. There is good gear down a ways. Get it. This move seems hard at first, but if you step right then back left it goes easily. More moderate climbing leads to a V-slot through another bulge. This is a little left of the final, right-facing corner on P1 of

On Ballet

. There is one bolt here. Although useful, it's not necessary, since there is excellent gear a few feet below. The moves here are fun and unusual, but not real hard. Angle left up a ramp then hand traverse right to the On Ballet belay. There are 2 new convenience bolts here. Somehow, people have been able to climb

On Ballet

for years without these bolts, but they ARE convenient if want to do just the first pitch, and they enable you to rap from the top of the second pitch with one rope.

Addendum: This pitch is the first pitch of

Charisma

.

P2: Continue straight above the belay on a series of rounded flakes with good gear. When the flakes run out move up and right into a left-facing corner (crux). You can place a blue Alien at the bottom of this corner before starting the moves. Good holds and gear await you at the top of the corner. Angle left across the slab below the ceilng with excellent gear above you to another 2 bolt anchor (also new).

1 2-rope rap or 2 1-rope raps get you down.

Double cams from micro- to finger-sized, single or double above that to #3 Camalot. Single set nuts including micro. More gear, obviously, if you will be linking P1 and P2. Double rope reduces rope drag if you're linking pitches.