South Face

This is an original Bauman & Kirk-West Cascade Umpqua Classic for anyone with a flare for mountaineering. PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.

From the uphill saddle ridge behind eagle rock hike the Parkway Ledge around the right side (west side) to the middle of the south face to where the easy Class-2 walking ends. Establish your fist belay. Pitch-1 (40 feet, 5.4, gear 1-2 inches with marginal rock): scramble east off the Parkway Ledge and around the corner following a narrow ledge  for about 40 feet before the Parkway Ledge widens and returns to Class-3. Establish your next belay at an obvious 3-inch crack that climbs to the right off the wider ledge. Pitch-2 (80 feet, 5.6, gear 2-6 inches): climb a short and more difficult section to enter into a leg-jam crack on the right side of a very large chimney feature (Paul Bunyan's Chimney). Follow this crack to a small ledge, up and to the right, at the base of a wider crack. Pitch-3 (200 feet, dirty Low 5th Class but a little runout so place gear or sling a tree where you can): Follow the larger crack to the summit where you will establish your next belay from a sandy sloped summit. Note: you will not be able to hear commands from below. Rappel down the Madrone Route (east side). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007 Map 4 page 226, Topo F page 235.

South face of Eagle Rock of the Parkway Ledge. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007 Map 4 page 226, Topo F page 235.

gear 1-6 inches, there are no rappel chains