Dr. Bombay

This thing starts as a vertical crack climb and quickly becomes a vertical and horizontal chimney climb. Protection is in the crack in the back of the chimney. If you fall, you fall out of it. Extremely strenuous. When I was 5'8" tall & 142#, I rated this thing 5.10d. One of the other six people who were present when I finally led it claimed it was only 5.9. But, he was only 5'4" tall and he couldn't lead it.   The first time I tried it, my legs weren't strong enough. So, I found a parking garage near my home that had smooth, precast, double horizontal concrete beams. I worked out in that garage regularly for nearly 3 months then bagged the route on my next attempt.  -Andy Solow

Located at Chimney Crag/Dr. Bombay Area.

nuts or friends in a small to medium finger to hand size crack