- Edit (TBD)
(It doesn't matter they'll change it anyways)
Description
Another all-gear route on this wall so let’s keep it that way Pitch One: This starts after a large boulder less then mid-way on the wall pass the tree (look at photos) with the twin cracks above and you're aiming for the right.Start up the wall passing a bulge, undercling the flake, work your way up the slab placing a crucial #1 in a pocket making your way into the vertical crack, pass it making a hard move and move into the highlight of this pitch the traverse left to the belay ledge. Gear for anchor 2 is a #2. The pitch is 5.11 and approximately 35 meters.Pitch Two: From the belay ledge move right into the crack make a few hard and thoughtful moves to get established into the wide crack. Off width your way up and out of the crack into a dike band of chicken heads using ties off for protection. To top out the dome you can go right or left. I recommend right, heading to the fourth pitch of First Amendment rights to it keep the grade a bit more sustained and it’s a pitch not to be missed! Head right on the dike passing a rap anchor and find a large right facing flake make a belay here with 4's and 3's.If you want to back off the grade follow the dike left to the low angel crack and make belay if you move up a bit into the crack it will help with rope drag. Gear for belay (depends on which part of the crack you use) 1 #1 and 1 #.5 1#.4 45 meters 5.11-Third Pitch: (fourth pitch of first amendment) Slab climb up to the horizontal crack that moves right placing a crucial .3. The crack then turns vertical undercling and jam to the stem box with options; one that ends and continues up through unprotected 5.5 climbing until you find a boulder like formation with a thread through and chicken head tie off and .2 or .3 for an anchor and two double length sling. 65-ish meters 5.10 R this pitch alone is four stars but mix in with the rest of the climb wow!Or option two-- go left on dike to Lost Wages Pitch Three: Either of the two low angle cracks of Lost Wages (the right gets wide and could take maybe even a 6 but it’s so chill/low angle I used fours and felt fine) until you about run out of rope at the base of the summit pitch look for a large boulder like formation. Gear for belay thread through chicken head/tie off and #.3(2 double length super helpful here) 65 meters 5.7. Fourth Pitch: Head up the low angle on pockets and edges. Look for a fours? crack on the left to make a belay. Gear for belay 4's 15 meters 5.6Review the walk-off information on the main page.
Location
East face of Out of Towners DomeRight of “Lost Wages” & massive vegetated gulley cleaving the upper half of dome
Protection
double rack .2-4, medium to large wires, alpines, double lengths, 70 meter rope
Routes in East Face of Out of Towners Dome
- 1(It doesn't matter they'll change it anyways)5.11-Trad