Sweet Tooth

Climb the lower vert to the shared no hands ledge. From here an introductory boulder problem (helps to be tall!) will see you to some jugs then the start of the sustained and bouldery final 20 feet. Brilliant climbing on crimps, underclings and some of the best granite pockets you'll ever climb lead to the anchor. Just like its neighbors, this route has some of the best quality and most unique climbing you will find on granite.

According to the out of print

Butte's Climbing Guide

by Dwight Bishop (published posthumously), it is unknown if Dwight ever redpointed this route and it was listed as an open project. I didn't see any indication that it had been climbed on recently, but if anyone has climbed it let me know and I will update the FA info.

Third bolt line right of the wide crack (

When You're This Big

5.8) splitting the north face.

4 bolts to fixed anchor.