- Edit (TBD)
Description
The start is up a very slippery overhanging, white quartzite wall with tricky gear to a small mossy ledge up to the left of the crack. Then go upward through a small dihedral. The holds are loose and the crack may be wet. Watch out for a large death block on the right side above the ledge. From the start it is about 40' to a nice ledge with a good 4" pine tree immediately above the crack. You can belay from there or if running it out, the slope kicks back and you can climb up and slightly left up the slab. Trending leftwards on the slab towards a large pine tree will take you to the upper trail. The route can be done in one long pitch.
Location
This route starts on the lowermost tier of rock on an overhanging flat wall. You can get to the base by bushwacking about 75m to the right of the main trail. The climb can be identified by a short overhanging white quartzite wall with a 3" maple tree about 3' to the right of the crack and several cracks angling up to the right. It can be done on gear in one or two pitches.
Protection
Nuts and small- to medium-size cams, sling for the tree belay.
Routes in Carney Crag
- 27Jungle Boogie5.8Trad