Mama Knows Best

IMPORTANT

1. This boulder is located at an elevation of about 13,000 feet, right before the summit of Pike's Peak in Colorado. Conditions can be hazardous, however, access to the Peak -- and thus this boulder -- is open year-round. Venture at your own risk, and be cautious. I went for Labor Day Weekend, and it was around 32 degrees Fahrenheit. There was already a bit of snow around here and a lot more at the summit.

2. Based on the holds on this route, I actually thought it would be a good warm-up boulder, but I was surprised at how intensely out of breath I was, and it took me a second to recover fully (I like to think I'm in fairly good shape). The air is very, very thin. So be sure to take the time to become acclimated to such conditions as best as you can to avoid feeling ill.

3. The rock is red granite. The boulders in this particular area feel a lot like the ones at Joshua Tree, actually, but that means they could also be pretty sharp. I was also able to climb this with no chalk at all, so it'd be best to leave the chalk behind to keep the rock as pure and untouched as possible.

Beta:

To start, match hands on a sloper with a jug on the right side, at the bottom right of the rock. There's a small step right under it that could be used as a starting foothold. Creep up on the right jug a bit more to get higher before making the move left. Step up with both feet. Then, you can reach your left hand into a vertical crack in the middle of the boulder. Match feet on a small, vertical slab facing you to the left. Creep your right hand up high until you reach another jug behind a mossy sloper (the moss is in specks, it's not bad at all).

Step up with your left foot onto a slopey incut, and your right foot onto the starting sloper. Bump your left hand up the crack a few times.

-- the vertical crack meets another to make a beautiful, upside down 90 degree angle --

Crimp onto a small hold just underneath the another crack right in front of your face. Traverse to the middle of the crack using the jugs inside the crack, **but the top side of the crack also makes for a crazy, slopey undercling move if you really wanted to up the ante (didn't try it).

At the middle, directly above you will be two slopers one on top of the other. The top one has a small crimp in the middle you can hold before reaching up with your...left hand up to a jug at the top-left part of the boulder.

The crux:

Step up with your right foot. Then with your left hand on the jug and right hand on the crimp, press hard on your right foot to reach up high over the lip that's directly above the main face of the boulder. Get your left foot up directly under you and your right foot somewhat flagged out right to stabilize. Reach up again with your left hand for another jug that's over a hump in the rock. It was far enough for my forearm and bicep to be touching the rock as I went for the hold. Continue stepping up to mantle at the top.

After passing through the Pike's Peak Gateway entrance (5089 Pikes Peak Highway, Cascade, CO 80809), either drive or hike your way (if the roads are closed) up to the Mile 16 Shuttle Parking Lot.

To the north side of the lot, there will be a ginormous cluster of boulders towering over the top of a small hill. Just about 200 or so yards to the left of that cluster (if you're looking at it from the parking lot), you'll find the boulder. It is somewhat mossy (which, again, doesn't really get in the way of the holds on this route) and has lots of cracks on it. The side this route is on is kind of flat, and it's facing the cluster of boulders. The huge cluster should be at your back as you climb.

This particular boulder is also kind of remotely located compared to the others, and it's really easy to get to from the parking lot. It's a great location for awesome photos, too.

1-2 crash pads and warm clothing. Become acclimated to high altitudes beforehand if possible.