Shattered Dreams

Start the climb directly (or by coming in from the right by liebacking up a block) and then climb the vertical zig-zag crack via liebacking, face climbing and even some jamming to a tricky scrunch move (crux) at the last bolt to finish on a ledge with anchors. Note: the use of long draws on bolts 4 and 5 is advised to keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the crack.

The route features moderate, big-hold climbing for most of it's length and despite the somewhat awkward crux at the top makes an excellent warm-up for the more difficult routes nearby. Also, be aware that the "Pigeon Hotel" (located between bolts #5 and #6) is currently open for business - so plan accordingly.

This is a bolted version of the lower portion of

Unexpected Difficulties

, and is easily identified by the jagged crack system as well as the "cookies + milk" graffiti at the base; just left of this is

Peter Principle

.

7 bolts, chain anchors