Bewitched

Bring a daisy to facilitate rapping off the crowded top of The Old Witch. 20 some draws, include at least 5 or more longer 22" over the shoulder sized slings to tie off knobs at the end of pitch 1. - Pitch one: 100' 11 bolts 5.9. Start to the right of the reading room overhang, just left of the Excalibur and the mossy chimney on the Old Witch Buttress. Clip a high first bolt and head straight up the buttress to just below the obvious chimney you can see from the ground. Straight up is Bewitched Direct, the traditional route traverses rightwards into that marvelous and fun chimney and clip the 2 bolts that protect the chimney which might have to be looked for as they are located more towards the outside of the chimney so that any falls are more outwards and cleaner. After about 12-15' of stemming (the outside) or chimneying (getting sucked to the inside), work back left out of the chimney to the main face and a semi-hanging belay 2 bolt anchor. Pitch 2 160' 5.9-10a and 19 bolts. Follow the bolts up pitch 2 straight up, basically staying slightly to the right of the buttress while still keeping to the left of the chimney to another 2 bolt belay. Pitch 3: 75' and 9 bolts, 5.6 finishing to the top of the fantastic summit pinnacle! 4 single rope rappels on Fixe stainless carabiner style anchors to the ground. The first drops into the notch between the pinnacle and the main wall and is visible slightly to climbers left once your feet touch ground on the notch. This marks the start of the Salathe Highway route. It goes without saying that the top of this pinnacle might be one of the worst places in Oregon to accidentally drop your rope while fiddling with the rappel setup. After the first rap down to the notch between The Old Witch and main wall, rappel straight down Trench Warfare to the ground.  

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