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Peak Mountain 3

This Ain't Nuthin

FA Randall Green, Bill Dockins, Kristen Drumheller, 1994
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I've never been to France, but this route offers three pitches of quality, sustained French-style stone. Really, I can't believe this route exists in Montana. This hog is a fully bolted resistance test-piece for the grade in a beautiful setting. I believe this made it on the cover of "The Rock Climber's Guide to Montana" for a reason. Now you have to go try it to see if I'm over selling it.

Pitch 1, 5.12a/b --

The crux. Climb out of the alcove through 15 or 20 of better than it looks rock. Then climb 60 feet of sustained, technical crimping. Either climb to shiny anchor with rap rings straight up OR take the original line and climb left through two bolts and a bush to a chain anchor at the top of pillar.

Pitch 2, 5.11c --

Enter crux off the chain belay and continue through relatively sustained climbing with a few crux bits. Again you have to options for the belay. Either take it to the chain anchor (which is the rap station), or climb to the camouflaged anchor to the left.

Pitch 3, 5.11a --

Trend up and right on beautiful, featured, and sharp rock. If you aren't climbing the last pitch, I recommend lowering off the anchor and have the follower climb it as a traditional TR set up.

Pitch 4, 5.8(?) -- This pitch is much lowered angle and allegedly only takes gear. I did not climb it. It looks great though.

Descent: A 70m rappel off the top of P2 got us to the ground with room to spare. There are definitely alternate options, but this worked for us so I won't speculate.

Location

From the road, cross the stream on an excitingly small and decomposing log and hike up the hill to a small alcove with a two bolt belay.

Protection

14 quickdraws will definitely do it. An extendable draw or two are nice. All anchors are bolted.


Routes in West Face


  1. 1
    This Ain't Nuthin
    5.12-
    Sport