We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Cooper-Hiser

FA Ed Cooper and Dave Hiser; FFA John Roskelley and Chris Kopczynski in 1967. FFA Direct Finish Variation: T. Nephew/R. Bergner/W. Parks.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1 (5.9 @chimney): Head up the left angling finger crack to the dead tree; Crux. As the tree would almost certainly break, if fallen on while being used as natural pro, I would bring a #6BD to place behind the tree (thin pro below).

Continue up to the large belay ledge, and bolted anchor; then keep going, up and right, off the ledge, to the second bolted anchor, 30 ft above  (could be split into two pitches).

Pitch 1 Alternate: See Canary Legs (5.10b @chimney)

Pitch 1 Alternate (option 2; highly recommend) climb “East Face Direct” .10b (two pitches, still intact after rock fall, see Laird guidebook) to a ledge system directly below the splitter crack on pitch two of Cooper-Hiser and build a gear anchor, or traverse out right to the Cooper-Hiser pitch 1 belay ledge.

Pitch 2 - Post-Rockfall Pitch: (150 ft; 5.10; money pitch) Head straight left off the anchor, complete a delicate traverse (place a small nut or .01BD midway through to protect the follower).

Continue up the spliter, off-finger/thin hands crack; Crux; can be protected safely without triple .75s, but bring them if available.

Look for a large chockstone to your right at the top of the crack. Make sure you have good pro, and make an airy step right onto the chockstone, then head up and right, under the overhang. Climb through the overhang, to the two bolt anchor above.

Pitch 3: “Direct Finish Variation” (90ft; 5.9) head straight up off the belay through 10ft of lieback climbing, head right and up through 3 mantles. The third of which, the Laird guidebook, correctly, refers to as, “a frantic mantle move,” Crux, (look at the seam, where the mantle ledge meets the rock face for pro before committing to the mantle). Continue right then head up and left, using hand cracks, to the two bolt anchor.

Location

The first pitch is the right side leg of a giant triangle feature (left side leg: “Canary Legs”).

Protection

Set of nuts, offset brass stoppers helpful at start of pitch one; BD Cams singles: .3, #4 & #6, doubles: .4 -.5, #1-#3, triples: .75

All anchors are bolted.