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Peak Mountain 3

Canadian Cartel

FA Eric Ruljancich. Belay/support: Lora Rivera, Eric Sophiea. June 7, 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

While the Venezuelan Mafia is certainly frightening, the Canadian Cartel is a force to be reckoned with. The plaid shirt wearing, Moose riding, raw maple syrup swilling mobsters will leave you feeling weak and disoriented. "Good day eh?"I've been looking at this line for a long time, but finally got around (or got strong enough) to bolt it last year. Then the Mountain caught on fire, and then the winter came. This line climbs up and over a large roof and tackles the leaning arête just right of Venezuelan Mafia. Sustained technical and powerful climbing on small knobs and side pulls over bullet rock will tax your endurance and footwork. The movement and rock quality are excellent on this climb, but be prepared for some sharp rock (as is typical with the area) and some demanding clips. This climb is a tight fit between the routes on either side, but climbs an independent and obvious line. You will share some foot holds on Venezuelan Mafia, but will be interacting with them via your fingers.  The bolt line is the line, and follows it closely. Note: As for the grade, this is my best estimate—I climbed directly over the roof with the bolt at my waist, safely protecting the move. I'll be interested to see what others think.

Location

Just right of Venezuelan Mafia, and just left of Raycreational Jug Use.

Protection

8 bolts. You may want to back clean the first. Bolt under the roof is to help keep the rope away from ones legs.