- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: (5.10b) Climb the first pitch of The Moon.
P2: (5.10c) Head straight up from the anchors into an immediate full-on roof traverse (crux). Good jugs mark the way as you scramble through long reaches until back to vertical face.
A crack marks the upper crux where either a quick balancey reach or an awkward, powerful lock-off get you through the business. A final top-roping directional awaits before the anchors.
Variation "Gravity Assist": (5.10b) instead of climbing the roof-traverse jugs at the start of P2, climb slightly right of the anchor and a few feet higher before heading left to a slopey traverse where the roof jugs of Low Gravity are now your feet. The proper beta makes this more like a 10b, but can be hard to decipher.
Protection
P1: 6 bolts + anchor (rings). P2: 8 bolts + anchor (mussy hooks).