- Edit (TBD)
Description
Along with Mr. Clean, this is the quintessential Dacks crack-in-corner pitch. Beautiful, steep laybacking and jamming up a finger--> hand crack caps an exciting lower half. Begin just left of Labatt-Ami at a broken inside corner. At 10 feet, protect and traverse beneath a small overlap to gain the arete. 10 more unprotected feet (5.7R) gains a stance beneath the corner. Jam and layback the fantastic crack to an enormous ledge with two bolts.
This is really a must do; it and Slim Pickins represent the best of 5.9 in the Keene Valley area.
Location
The route is near the climber's-right end of the Upper Beer Walls, past the 5.10 Wall. The crack lies inside a small dihedral that in turn is on the enormous right-facing arete left of Labatt-Ami.
Protection
Pro to 3", doubles of hand-size recommended
Routes in Upper Beer Wall
- 13Frosted Mug5.9Trad