One Nut Wonder II 5.6 AI3, 600m

One Nut Wonder is the name I gave to the major West Face couloir on Telegraph Peak. It starts near Cedar Glen, goes up an avy path, and steepens at the crux, which could be iced up (much easier and more fun), or dry.

Above the short crux is a runnel of low angle ice. The couloir opens up to a wide snow gully up to 45 or 50 degrees or so (no fancy science here), which then terminates near the south summit.

The views are really special. The San Gabes are where my soul belongs, and when I'm climbing this route I soak in some of the best views I've ever seen.

The name was given when I took several falls on the crux on a dry year following Alex F. I smashed one of my testicles repeatedly in my BD Alpine Bod harness. The crux was protected by a single nut.

Start at the Icehouse Canyon trailhead. Hike up IHC trail and make the left turn to Cedar Glen. Once at Cedar Glen campground, continue hiking for a bit until you can make a beeline up to the base of the couloir. You will have to check your map here to find the right way.

I have approached the route from a lot of different directions, and honestly they're all kinda crappy. Just go for it and you'll probably have fun.

A very light alpine rack. A range of a few nuts, maybe a small #5-6 hex, a couple stubby screws and a couple snow pickets. Or, go without and go fast. Really depends on conditions, and you won't know til you're at the crux.