- Edit (TBD)
Description
Step up to the big roof. Place pro underneath (small cam) and turn the roof (1st crux) to horizontal handholds and the first bolt. The 2nd crux is right around the 2nd bolt in a thin slab section. Up higher, you'll pass a cool quartz vein and enter a right-facing dihedral with some tricky pro but easier climbing.
This climb is probably a little harder than the bolted climb to its right, and is almost as good. Like the nearby bolted climbs, it is well-protected, so it's a good climb for a someone breaking into the 5.9 grade at TP.
Location
This is the middle of the 3 bolted climbs on the south face of South Rock. It starts at the lower right end of the big roof.
This is "Unknown #5" in 'Taos Rock'
Protection
3 bolts, plus some gear (nuts and cams from fingers to 2"). Rappel off the common anchor on the south side.