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Peak Mountain 3

Space Walk

FA John Kelbel & Evan Moseman 5/28/11
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A fun strenuous corner crack.

  1. Climb the short flake in the corner. Move up and pull a small overhang onto a thin ledge standing only on the thicker areas. Continue up to a wide ledge at the base of the overhanging corner. Climb the crux corner and pass two more ledges in 20 feet and belay on a spacious ledge. 2. Move left off the belay up a short wide crack and onto a narrow ledge on d ramp. Step up and right into a water grove and follow this short grove to a ledge that joins with “Hard Up”. Finish out the pitch on “Hard Up”. 3. Finish with the last pitch of "Hard Up" or "Hard On"

Location

Take the trail alongside the white stone building, as soon as you start to approach rock move left up the hillside moving about 200 feet left of the sign. Look for the first ramp to the right and follow this to a nice flat platform 50’ off the ground. The climb starts in the left facing corner at the right end of the platform.

Protection

A standard trad rack is needed for this climb. For the gear belay at the end of pitch 1 large cams are needed like a #3 and #4 Camalot. Note: if the leader or second falls off on the crux corner of pitch 1 they will be taking a space walk, with little chance of getting back on. On pitch 2 after reaching the narrow ledge on d ramp find a gear placement at the base of the ledge on the left and extend it with long slings back around the corner you came up.

Warning A large overhanging detached block is at the top of the crux corner on pitch 1 which one is forced to climb over. I checked this out on rappel by jumping on the end of the block and it did pivot slightly however it's locked into the main wall some how. Also note it has a very sharp outer edge which is a serious issue with the rope running over it. Any gear placements above the block can be extended with long runners and belaying toward the outer side of the ledge may keep the rope away from the sharp edge.