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Peak Mountain 3

The Cave

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Description

The start is the same as Little Inch on G Wall. When you reach a horizontal crack about one quarter of the way up, break away from Little Inch and angle up to the left. About half way up, you find yourself below a large block, with a small tree rooted above it. Your task is to get yourself past the tree without grabbing it! (I couldn't). This part of the climb is the crux and is a fun challenge. It's an awkward spot, so be careful, you don't want to smash into the blocks around you if you fall.

Once above the tree, the route joins up with Little Inch; just follow that to the anchor.

This route is listed in the Boston Rocks guide. The description says you should "climb into a cave", but I never saw anything that remotely resembled a cave. I can only guess it has been filled in with dirt and is now occupied by the small tree mentioned above.

Location

Start at Little Inch on G Wall, and angle up left to get below a big block with a small tree growing above it. Get over the block, and then climb up to rejoin Little Inch above.

Protection

The top rope set up is similar to that for Little Inch. Head past H Wall, take the obvious trail to the left, and hike up and left to reach the peak. There are two trees, and two giant, old, but sturdy, metal staples at the top which can be used to anchor (about 50 ft of slings should be plenty). Make sure your rope is not running over the sharp edges of rock near the top!