- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route takes off from the notch between the tower and the main wall. IT starts with a 90 foot seam, followed by broken free climbing to the summit.
The aid seem is perfect for peckers and thin pins (at the moment). We only had 4 of such, so we were forced to do like 15-25 feet of climbing (occasional other gear) then place a bolt, lower and clean, and repeat the process. That said, there are like 4 bolts on the first pitch to break up the seem. It could be done on nothing but peckers, but the worst rock is at the very top so, well, wear a hat!
The very last moves of the second pitch require heavy use of the teetery block seen on the right side of the summit in Brads video. Its a bit disconcerting. Again, wear a hat and try not to piss it off.
P1 = Directly across from the rappel climb the seem to a ledge that has two bolts. ONe bolt is bad... it went in funky. Sorry. IT can be backed up.
P2 = Climb up and left past a bolt to a very committing (ankles away) slab move. Like 9+ or 10-, but a bit soft and with ramifications. Follow a corner, traverse across the ledge, climb through some choss and up an arete to the teetery block. We had a name for it that hopefully Brad can remember. Pull real hard to get past the thing onto the summit ledge.
You have to do a boulder problem to actually top out, then reverse it to get back to the rappel/tyrolean ledge.
Location
The permanantly shady side of Amazon Tower.
Protection
Lots of thin gear, a set of nuts, a complete set or two of cams, a few quickdraws, and a sense of humor.
Routes in Amazon Tower
- 1Four Peckers and an Amazon5.10+Trad · Aid