Beginner's Route

A wonderfully-misnamed route, since most beginners will probably not find chimney climbing particularly easy. The Dixie Cragger's Atlas lists this at 5.5, but most leaders find it a grade or two harder. Excellent protection and a good opportunity for practicing chimney technique make Beginner's Route a fun lead.

Starting below the obvious V-shaped chimney, make a bouldering move into the slot and work your way up to a slight overhang. Transition out of the chimney and up a crack to a slabby finish.

Starts about 15' left of Water in Motion. Rap from a tree with fixed slings and quicklinks.

Standard rack, no big gear required. Build an anchor using trees and pro.