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Peak Mountain 3

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation)

FA Howard Peterson & David Tibbetts mid 1970's
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Wild exposure is the crux of this one!

P1 5.4 120, Climb first pitch of Weissners dike to a two bolt belay

P2 5.9 120, Move out right from the belay and head up then left aiming for the steep wall below the Dog. Tricky and sometimes chossy moves up and left gain you the ledge before the dogs jaw. (this pitch can be split here by belaying to the right if you think rope drag will be a problem) Here exposure is the name of the game. Hand traverse out left (no feet!) and mantle onto the dogs nose (crux). Follow a ledge around to the south side of the Dog climbing loose flakes and an easy corner (shared with Fleabitten) to finish. Belay from two bolt belay on top of dogs head.

Location

Start as for Weissners dike and climb the north side of The Old Mans Dog

Protection

Your standard rack should do you, red camalots protect the crux

Two raps with two ropes or a 70m and some easy downclimbing