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Peak Mountain 3

Mohling Arete

FA Franz Mohling?
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Description

Looking for Angel's Way, I stumbled across this prime choice. Remoteness, length of climb, beauty of the route path, and great rock make this a classic for me. It follows the ridge of this rock for as long as you dare.

Start about 50 feet up and right from the roof that caps the base of the east face. Once there you can see a clearly defined crack/flake system running directly for the crest. From there, just stay on the crest, following whatever line of weakness you like.

About 500 feet up, you'll come to a gap that you need to creatively solve. If this freaks you out, don't continue.

Another 300 feet leads to a wild 5 foot gap with about 60 feet of exposure. You can go down and left 5 feet to a tree, then do a VERY airy and somewhat tenuous traverse. Or, you can jump (my partner did) to the round boulder on the other side. I didn't dare to watch.

From here go up a chimney, around another gap, then a creative slot left and a ramp around a steeper headwall. From here you get to even a wider gap with even more of the daily amount of air. Make 3 moves up that headwall right next to the gap (5.5, don't pull that loose flake off).... stand up, gulp, wait, gulp again, then jump to the other side.

Of course you're going to make it, and gain the beautiful sloping ramp that you see ahead of you. Summit fever is approaching, but it's false! Another gap, this time too wide to jump, is ahead of you. Thankfully, you can downclimb down and right, then left to the base of the gap. You can go up the crack in the headwall, or scramble right. Finish!

We did this free solo in running shoes, not anticipating the spicy moves and airy gaps.... but I'm not really sure a rope or climbing shoes would help you much. Regardless, a beautiful climb with solid rock for a long long time...

Protection

Typical Flatirons slab climbing..... you won't be able to get much in at all. Especially the spicy gaps - don't fall there!