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Peak Mountain 3

Thermic Fever

FA Jeremy Aslaksen and Joe Forrester, August 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Follows the west ridge of the Kingfisher from its low point adjacent to Ancient Art. This route is nearly entirely new ground - with the exception of 1.5 pitches of the Minatour route put up by Duane Raleigh. We were able to avoid Jagged Edge by heading onto the southwest face. All bolts are 3/8th inch, most are 3 or 4 inches. Route lengths are approximate---it was raging hot so we may have been delirious.

P1- 150' A1 (no bolts, bolted anchor). Up cracks toward notch.

P2 - 110' A1 (no bolts, bolted anchor). More of the same.

P3-  50'  5.6 C1 (no bolts, gear belay). Up small offwidth to dwarf crawl around right.

P4- 180' 5.9+ A1+ (no new bolts, gear belay). This route has one bolt that was part of the Duane Raleigh Minotaur route. Long sweet pitch. It is 2 ropes to the ground from here on the southwest side using the P4 and P3 anchors.

P5- 100' 5.7 A1 (2 bolts, bolted anchors). Traverses under the head of the Minotaur. Requires some lower off shenanigans.

P6- 40' rap onto SW face onto dirt ledge. 5.3 walk east on dirt ledge (bolted anchor).

P7- 90' 5.6 A1. Cool hole going into the heart of the Kingfisher.....horrible roof to surmount. (1 bolt, bolted anchor).

P8- 30' 5.5. Dangerous jump between hoodoos (1 bolt, bolted anchor, 1 rope to ground on the southwest side).

P9- 130' 5.6 A2 (7 bolts, bolted anchor). Traverse straight right into a beak seam, then up and right with intermittent free/aid climbing onto southwest face.

P10-100' A2 (2 bolts, bolted anchor). Continue to head up and right.

P11- 130' A2+ (10 bolts, bolted anchor). Straight up the beak seam until it bottoms out. Big loose flake midway up pitch directly above your belayer - tread lightly choss ninja.

P12 - 75' 5.8 A1 (2 bolts, bolted anchor). Go through Moenkopi caprock roof, then left to obvious corner.

P13- 35' 5.6 C1 (no bolts, bolted anchor). Go right from belay up cracks to dirt scramble.

Scramble to summit, then scramble back down. Single rope raps to the belay at P11. Then it is 3 double rope raps to ground. There is an anchor out on the face (not part of the route) about 150' below P10 anchors.

Location

See pictures....essentially follows lowest portion of west ridge of Kingfisher to the summit.

Protection

Doubles set of cams from 0.3-#4 BD cam. One number 5 and one number 6 useful. 6#1 beaks, 10 #2 beaks, and 12 #3 beaks. Spectres's x2. Screamers. Lots of rope protectors. Sunglasses. Sunshade. Sunscreen. Whole lot of water if doing this in August....


Routes in Kingfisher