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Peak Mountain 3

Wind Turbine

FA Al Simons/CJ Simons
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The cruxes are before the first bolt and around last bolt. It is a fun climb on easy ground. I marked it "R" simply because there are 5 bolts in 80 feet and it is possible to take a 30-35 footer on less than vertical ground along with the fact that there is loose rock. It could be a good beginer lead if the person can read poor rock conditions.

Location

Park at the pullout for friendship 7 (1.3 miles west of the beigh tube) The route is in the gully 70 feet directly above

santa's little helpers

. There are two approaches. #1. 4th class the loose gully just left of

Santa's

. It is not recommended due to the possibility of causing loose rock to fall to the highway. #2. Just 78-80 feet left of

Santa's

is a gully (15 feet west of

Ironjohn

). Hike up the gully following a faint trail on the right till you get to the base of the "

Chopping Block

". Climb

Chopping Block

or 4th class up the left of this climb to the top. From the anchors on "

Chopping Block

", scramble 20 feet toward the highway to the anchors for Wind Turbine. Rap to the base of the route, pull your rope, and lead up. (You can also top rope off these anchors).

To get down, rap off chopping block anchors.

Protection

5 bolts, two bolt anchor with screw links placed. The bolts are all in solid rock. I didn't see anything in the way of other gear.


Routes in Iron John/Little Tree area