- Edit (TBD)
Thalia and Melpomene
Description
This is a 45' long up and right-trending traverse on the east side of the boulder. It is the prominent line and begs to be climbed. It follows the side of the boulder around two main bulges and then into a technical face. From there, you stretch it out on unique holds to a easy topout. Bring your endurance! The land rises with you as you climb up, so you're never too far from the ground.
This climb is a link-up between two problems with a good rest in between. You can stand up and leave the route at this rest. The FA included a brief rest without standing up. If this were a trad route, you'd make a belay at this spot. The first 25 feet to the rest "belay" goes at about V4. The remaining portion (20') is a harder making the whole thing an estimated V5.
A sit start can be done starting at the good rail using the fish jaw for tricky feet. Reach for a hidden hold near the fish jaw, and balance up into the stand start. The sit adds length, not necessarily difficultly unless you have a short wing span.
Location
It is on O29 on the Caltopoo map.
From Weetamoo, take the Overlook Express from near Graffiti boulder to O29.
Protection
Multiple pads or one pad and active spotter.
Routes in King Fish Boulder
- 1Thalia and MelpomeneV5Bouldering