- Edit (TBD)
Description
Good movement on great rock. There are a few different sequences from the first to second bolt: either move straight up with long pulls on awesome crimps, or scooch a bit right and make tension moves to a good hold and traverse left on the horizontal. Climb to a shake then up to the roof though an amazing sequence of edges. Pull left through the roof using the "black tongue" to a good sidepull (the tongue looks like it could rip off, but it is really solid. I tried to kick it off when I bolted it, but it is there to stay and makes for a very unique hold). Contunue up on slopers to a kneebar just under the anchor. A horizontal hand-jam out left makes clipping the anchor a breeze. It may be the best route of the grade within a 30 minute radius of Gunnison.
Protection
7 bolts to anchors.