- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route follows the crack up a tall dihedral for about 90 feet to a ledge, then goes up a face slightly right of the ledge. The dihedral part is perfect for beginning trad climbers, as the cam and nut placements are bomber. Use both sides of the dihedral to stem your way up towards victory. The crux is the face climb at the top of the route (protected by two bolts).
Warning:
A 70m rope will be ideal for this route.
If you use a 60m rope, the belayer may want to stand on the upper ledge (right below the start of the crack) and tie a knot at the end of the rope. If you rappel using a 60m you'll reach the ledge and have to down climb roughly 4 feet.
Location
To the left of Ode to Apollo (5.10d), at the obvious dihedral.
Protection
Set of Black Diamond Camalots Set of nuts 2 quickdraws 2 bolt anchor