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Peak Mountain 3

The Pit & The Pendulum

FA: Laeger & Clark (August 1976) FFA: Kamps & partner (1977) Complete chimney: Rich Smith & Dick Shaum (1977)
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Description

A fun route with options.

P1: Ascend the right facing corner for a long pitch to a belay stance (5.9). Alternately, one can do Gorilla Warfare to get to the belay.

P2: A short pitch. A few easy moves left, then up & right up an easy ramp/crack to belay at the base of a beautiful corner crack.

P3: A classic! Jam, undercling, & lieback up & left, then around the corner to even better climbing to a bolted belay (5.10b).

P4: Yopu have 2 options. Either climb straight up the chimney/offwidth (The Pit version) to the top, or pendulum left (the, um, Pendulum version) to another right facing corner which leads to the top. The Pit version is 5.10+, the Pendulum version is 5.9 A0.

From the top, scramble up to the summit (class 4), then the standard descent.

Location

Starts down low on The Witch. Scramble down the notch to the right facing corner about 40' past (right of) Gorilla Warfare.

Protection

Doubles from small to #3 camalot, one set of nuts, and several slings. If doing The Pit version, also bring a #6 camalot or 2, and an optional big bro might also help.