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Peak Mountain 3

The Slot

FA Steve Cheyney
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is one of those hidden gems of Thunder Ridge. Doesn't look like much from the ground but has excellent steep 5.9 climbing. The route wanders around and has a couple of ways to go. Start 10' right of

Evil Genius

at a right-leaning ramp with a bolt. Climb through the crumbly section and onto a ledge with a good crack on the right side. Follow this left-facing dihedral for about 10' and look for an inobvious leftward traverse move that will take you back towards the main chimney system. Continue up using jugs and the awesome "pinky hold" to the right of the main wide crack. Big holds along a crack system lead back right and up to the anchors.

Variation: After leaving the ledge and heading up the left-facing dihedral - climb another 10' past the standard traverse and then go left.

Location

East side of Alligator Lounge, starts 10' right of

Evil Genius

.

Protection

Pro to 3 1/2" with plenty of long runners to reduce rope drag.