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Peak Mountain 3

South Face

FA Tim Toula & Kathy Zaiser. April 26, 1987 - FFA Bret Ruckman, Tim Coats
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climbs the obvious crack system on the south face of the tower.

Pitch 1- Climb hands in a corner on the left side of a pillar. Above the pillar climb 5.9 loose to a belay with bolts.

Pitch 2- Climb a 5.9 squeeze slot to a handcrack above then belay at bolts.

Pitch 3- An awkward 10- move leads to a good squeeze chimney. Belay on large ledge with bolt.

Pitch 4- Climb over blocks in chimney then make a stem move and hand traverse right to a good hand crack. Climb the handcrack past a scary loose spot to a good ledge with bolts. 5.10

Pitch 5- Start with 5.10+ fists and into steep offwidth above. This is a long steep pitch with three bolts. Lots of big gear needed.

Pitch 6- Climb a 5.10 offwidth to the top of a pillar and a piton, then 100' of 5.9 chimney to a belay bolt.

Pitch 7- Climb 200 ft of chimney past a fixed piece to a belay at bolts. 5.9

Pitch 8- Make a 5.10 face move then easier climbing leads to the summit.

Descent- Rappel anchors are found on the opposite side of the tower than where you top out. rap fixed anchors to the ground.

Protection

1 each- #.4 - #1 Camalots; 3 each- #2 - #5 Camalots; 1-2 bigger cams; 2 #4 big bros; 70-meter ropes better but 60's okay.


Routes in Texas Tower