- Edit (TBD)
Description
Memorable. 6 great pitches! Pro on the last pitch is R, but should not be an issue if you're climbing 11.
P1-Start at a bolt ladder to the right of Highway 61 (where the old tree climb began) and climb corner to ledge system above. 5.8 - 80'
P2- Undercling right under the overlap to ledge. 10b - 40'
P3- Move up and left via crack into a corner (bolt). Straight up into the chimney feature and then to another great belay ledge! 5.9 - 140'
P4- Up and at 'em! Up the 5.8 handcrack then traverse right under overlap to right edge and bust a move up (assume harder if you have a smaller ape-index) to a bolt above and a friction move to the belay. 11b - 90'
P5-6 May be combined. Move out right from belay to a bolt and to a devious 5.9 move, trend up and left to another bolt (crux) and climb a finicky friction move to easier climbing and the belay bolts. 5.11b - 50'
P6- Climb out right a bit and up, then trend right a bit through some lichen, to the trees! 1 bolt protects the pitch. 5.9 - 60' An alternative at the start of p6 may be to traverse right to escape into an obvious feature. From Tyler Rohr: Some beta on pitch 6: After the lone bolt it was pretty unclear to me where to go. I found a piton up and right in small feature (maybe 10-15 ft)...I ended up moving right maybe 20 feet from the piton through dirty ground and then the rest of the way up (30 or so feet?). A lot of the climbing involved scrapping off lichen before committing to a foot, but eventually, far right, things cleaned up.
Location
Look for bolt ladder right of Highway 61. You can see the former tree-climb laying on the ground adjacent to the start.
Protection
normal rack up to 3".
Routes in The Mordor Wall
- 16Lights in the Forest5.11bSport · Trad