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Peak Mountain 3

East Chimney

FA Steven Van Sickle, Lucas Carrion June 2015
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a high quality variantion to the

North Rib

. The first real pitch of climbing is a fun, clean, and well-protected chimney. The second pitch was also good climbing though a bit nebulous. Once you reach the top of the ridge (about halfway up the

North Rib

), it is about 1500 feet of easy fifth class to the summit.

Location

This route begins about halfway down the Chossmaster Couloir on the skier's left side. The chimney is a somewhat obvious gash in the North Rib. Pitch one begins with some face climbing to get into the chimney. Climb the chimney to the top exit left on good holds to a nice belay ledge. From this ledge, we traversed to the left and then wandered up to the top of the ridge (rope drag). Follow north rib beta to the summit.

Protection

Nuts, a single set of cams from green C3 to #2, and an ice axe.