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Peak Mountain 3

Raven's Roost

FA Jack Tackle, Brian Leo, Doug Randall (1978)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This fantastic, widely overlooked 30m moderate sitting on Blackline's west face is the little brother to Ashes of Stone. What was likely very run out climbing 40 years ago is somewhat less runout with tiny cams.

Start up the obvious corner in the middle of the face and place solid gear before the right-facing flake.  Follow the weakness through a cruxy but well protected bulge up the left side of the face until the weakness ends with a snug #0.2 critical gear placement. Stay towards the left of the face / arete past good gear options in horizontals until the anchors.

2-bolt anchor. Rappel or lower with a 60m or longer rope. Get on it!

Location

From Blackline, walk around the corner to the obvious low-angle west face of the buttress. A gully separates Diesel Driver from Blackline, Raven's Roost is the face right of the gully.

Protection

Doubles from BD #0.2 - #1, nuts, bolted anchors with rap rings. Offset cams / modern narrow cams like totems are very useful for some funky but bomber placements.